"Recently, light-emitting diode masks, more commonly known as LED masks, have become the hottest innovation in the beauty industry. By utilizing the power of light therapy, these futuristic-looking masks offer a new approach to skincare from the comfort of your home. Although social media has been filled with influencers donning these devices as of late, using light for beauty and therapeutic purposes is actually nothing new.
Light therapy dates back to the early 20th century and has found its way into the skincare realm (yay!), giving beauty buffs another way to improve their complexions. But, given that LED masks have a reputation for costing a pretty penny, what exactly do they do, and are they worth the investment? We tapped beauty experts to break down everything you need to know about LED masks and their beauty benefits.
Celebrity Facialist
For over 25 years, Vee Mistry has dedicated herself to the science of the skin through her certification as an esthetician and facialist. Born and raised in the UK, Vee acquired her diploma in England and trained further in NYC, London, and now Toronto, where she currently runs her private facial studio, SKINBYVEE.
Dermatology and Aesthetic Physician Assistant
Leighanne McGill is a certified Physician Assistant at JECT in New York, NY. She has her Master’s Degree at Campbell University’s College of Pharmacy & Health Sciences.
Board-Certified Dermatologist
Dr. Kseniya Kobets is Board-Certified Cosmetic Dermatologist practicing in New York, NY. She offers a wide variety of treatments, including laser resurfacing for skin rejuvenation, laser resurfacing, laser hair removal, personalized skin care, and more.
What Are LED Masks?
“LED masks are advanced skincare tools that use light emitting diodes (LEDs) to deliver therapeutic light directly to your skin,” says Gabriela Nistor, Director of Spa The Ritz-Carlton, Tysons Corner. The therapeutic light penetrates the skin at different depths depending on the color, with the two primary colors being red and blue. Red light is best for boosting collagen production and enhancing skin firmness and elasticity, while blue light works to reduce inflammation and eliminate acne-causing bacteria.
“LED or light emitting diode masks employ the principle of photobiomodulation—a process in which absorption of light into the skin causes positive changes at the cellular level,” Board-Certified Physician Assistant Leighanne McGill explains. “Photobiomodulation can help reduce environmental damage and increase growth production in the skin.” (Read: it can clear and repair complexions.)
How Do LED Masks Benefit the Skin?
LED masks deliver targeted light therapy to skin that addresses concerns at a cellular level. The different colors of light (mainly red and blue) trigger specific biological responses, with red light stimulating collagen production and blue light reducing breakouts and calming inflammation.
Plus, some LED masks use near-infrared light to promote deeper tissue repair (thanks, NASA, for figuring that one out). “This technology helps improve your complexion by addressing underlying skin issues and promoting healthier, more radiant skin,” adds Nistor.
What Skin Concerns Do LED Masks Address?
Since LED masks deeply penetrate the skin, they target more skin concerns than meets the eye. “LED masks can address a wide range of skin concerns, including cystic acne, skin laxity, collagen and elastin production, fine lines, wrinkles, contact dermatitis, and pigmentation issues like sun damage and melasma,” says celebrity facialist and owner of the private facial studio, SKINBYVEE, Vee Mistry. Basically, they’re a non-invasive way to improve skin at home, making them a helpful and easy addition to any skincare routine.
Are LED Masks Suitable for All Skin Types?
Generally speaking, yes, LED masks are suitable for all skin types. Due to the non-invasive nature of light therapy, it can be used on sensitive, oily, dry, and combination skin without causing irritation negative reactions in most cases. It’s also worth noting that different light settings can be tailored to address specific skin concerns, regardless of skin type. For example, red light therapy is good for aging and dry skin since it boosts collagen production, while blue light is effective for people with oily or acne-prone skin.
However, McGill does not recommend blue light wavelengths for those with darker skin tones or melasma, since there has been some evidence that blue light can worsen hyperpigmentation. With that in mind, it’s always best to talk to your dermatologist before adding an LED mask to your routine to ensure your skin can handle it.
Do LED Masks Have Any Side Effects?
One of the best things about LED face masks is that there are no major risks when it comes to using them. However, as McGill mentioned, certain types of LED light (mainly blue light) can worsen pre-existing skin conditions like melasma. Be sure to talk to your doctor about your skin before using a mask.
However, the benefits of an LED mask can depend on which one you opt for. “Cheap devices can do more harm than good, as they can generate too much heat,” says Kseniya Kobets, MD, Director of Cosmetics Dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care. Due to this, be sure to buy devices with reliable customer reviews and expert-backed technology.
How Often Can You Use LED Face Masks
“For optimal results, it’s recommended to use LED masks 2-3 times per week, with each session lasting about 10-20 minutes,” advises Nistor. “While results can vary, many users notice improvements in their skin within 4-6 weeks of consistent use.” Just keep in mind that some masks might have shorter usage times (like the Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro), so just be sure to read the instructions before use.
How Long Does It Take To See Results From LED Masks?
The time it takes to see noticeable results from LED masks really varies from person to person. Typically, most people will start seeing some improvements to their skin within 4-6 with consistent use. For issues like acne, some people might have fewer breakouts within a couple of weeks, while anti-aging benefits like smoother skin and reduced fine lines may take a bit longer to see results.
How Do I Choose an LED Mask?
At the end of the day, picking out an LED mask comes down to preference. “For devices, I like to look for ones that hold a charge and specify specific wavelength, as well as the number of bulbs and energy,” explains Kobets. “Higher price range devices usually have a higher number of bulbs.”
To break it down, red light (around 630-660 nm) is ideal for anti-aging, while blue light (around 405-420 nm) is better for treating acne. Some masks offer multiple light settings, which means you can enjoy both kinds of light and their benefits.
So, Do LED Masks Really Work?
If you ask us, LED masks are great additions to skincare routines, but whether or not a mask is worth the price tag depends on your skincare goals and expectations. While they can address specific concerns like fine lines, wrinkles, and acne, the results are typically gradual, which means you need to be patient and consistent. Overall, LED masks can make complexions glow, so if you’re in the market for a new skincare device (and know you’ll actually use one consistently), they’re a worthwhile addition to your routine.
The Best LED Masks
Lauren Harano, Contributing Beauty & Lifestyle Writer
Lauren Harano is a Southern California native turned New Yorker with a passion for all things beauty, travel, and lifestyle. She has over seven years of experience in the journalism industry, and her work can be found in between the pages of Cosmopolitan and Seventeen as well as online at Glamour, InStyle, Teen Vogue, Esquire, POPSUGAR, and various food and travel sites.