"Step aside, snail mucin and peptides—a buzzy new beauty ingredient has entered the skincare scene. Exosomes, which were once confined to the realm of science and medicine, have made their way into skincare with promises to improve everything from the skin’s hydration to hair loss. But what are exosomes, and how exactly do they work?
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Exosomes are like “packages” for the skin, says board-certified dermatologist and founder of SŌM Aesthetics, Dr. Saami Khalifian. The powerhouse particles have a unique ability to improve skin hydration, but they do it by working smarter, not harder. Rather than helping to retain the skin’s moisture like hyaluronic acid, exosomes are believed to assist in cellular regeneration, helping the skin produce its own hydration naturally. As innovation ramps up, we’re seeing a flood of exosome-infused serums, creams, and even hair care products hitting the shelves, making them the next big thing in anti-aging and skin health.
Intrigued? Not sure where to start? We spoke with experts to learn everything there is to know about exosomes, and how you can easily incorporate them into your skincare routine.
Dr. Saami Khalifian
Dr. Saami Khalifian is a double board-certified dermatologist and the founder of Som Aesthetics in Encinitas, California. He attended medical school at The Johns Hopkins School of Medicine and completed his residency at the Harvard Combined Dermatology Residency Program.
Sophia Moradi
Sophia Moradi is a healthcare administrator at Avalon Surgery and the co-founder of SŌM Skin
What are exosomes, exactly?
Exosomes are like “packages” for the skin, says board-certified dermatologist and founder of SŌM Aesthetics, Dr. Saami Khalifian. Essentially, these naturally-occurring cell vesicles contain a mix of growth factors, peptides, lipids, RNA, and other skin-benefitting ingredients. “If you imagine a stem cell as a delivery truck, the exosome would be the carefully packed shipment on that truck. What matters most is the cargo inside the exosome: the collection of signals that can help target cells repair and regeneration,” says Dr. Khalifian.
Though the technology may be a bit science-y, the concept is simple: exosomes are tiny particles that help your cells communicate and share important nutrients to keep your skin hydrated and healthy.
The reason we’re seeing a wave of exosome-based skincare brands popping up lately is pretty simple, too. Science and technology have finally caught up, allowing us to collect, purify, and unlock the full potential of exosomes. Not too long ago, these cellular packages were considered little more than waste. Thankfully, now that we know the messages inside exosomes are key to how cells communicate and function, beauty brands are tapping into that power, and they’re not looking back.
How do exosomes benefit your skin?
Over the past few years, hydration has been the ultimate goal in skincare, with everyone from beauty enthusiasts to dermatologists raving about the importance of keeping skin plump and dewy. From hyaluronic acid serums to moisture-locking creams, the quest for that healthy, hydrated glow has taken center stage. But now, as skincare evolves, exosomes are serving as the next iteration of that trend.
So, should exosomes replace your hydrating products completely? Though exosomes deliver hydration by working from within the skin and hair, they’re not technically a replacement for topical hydration products, so don’t throw out your hyaluronic acid just yet.
Sophia Moradi, co-founder of SŌM Skin, explains that these powerhouse packages enhance the body’s natural ability to retain hydration by “stimulating the production of key molecules like hyaluronic acid and lipids.” These molecules play a critical role in attracting and locking in moisture, which helps the skin and hair stay hydrated from the inside out. TL;DR: they make your hydration products even more effective.
Think of hyaluronic acid as the trusty sponge that pulls in moisture to keep your skin plump and juicy. Exosomes, on the other hand, are the overachieving messengers that tell your skin cells how to repair, regenerate, and better do their jobs. Together, they’re the dream team: HA brings the hydration, and exosomes supercharge your skin’s ability to soak it all in and thrive. They’re not replacing each other; they’re leveling each other up.
How to incorporate exosomes into your skincare routine
When it comes to beauty products, following the instructions is always key—but with exosome serums and masks, it’s a non-negotiable. These tiny powerhouses might seem simple, but they’re super delicate and need a little TLC to do their job. Treat them right, and you’ll see the magic happen; skip a step, and you might miss out on that glow-up.
Exosome formulas are carefully designed to keep those precious particles stable, so details like applying them to clean skin, using just the right amount, and layering them properly matter. The good news: It’s not as complicated as it seems. Exosome-based products often deliver noticeable results in as little as two weeks—think plump, hydrated, dewy skin that doesn’t quit. Be sure to apply them to freshly cleansed skin, and to let the product fully absorb before your next layer of skincare (like your hyaluronic acid serum for bonus hydration).
And word to the wise? Not all exosomes are created equal. “Plant-based exosomes lack the regenerative properties of human-derived exosomes because of the significant differences in their genetic makeup,” explains Moradi. “Human-derived exosomes are uniquely designed to communicate with human cells, promoting true rejuvenation.” So, choose wisely—and let science do the rest.
Alyssa Rotunno, Contributing Writer
Alyssa Rotunno is a beauty, fashion, and lifestyle writer who specializes in skincare, haircare, makeup, and the latest up-and-coming trends. Her work has appeared in InStyle, Real Simple, and more.