"If you think sculpted, lit-from-within glows are only reserved for Hollywood’s elite, think again. Thanks to TikTok, Hollywood beauty secrets are more accessible than ever. Case in point? The underpainting technique that exploded on the platform after users discovered celebrity MUA Mary Phillips uses it on stars like Hailey Bieber and Kendall Jenner. Now, the hashtag #MaryPhillipsTechnique has 12.6 million views and counting, and underpainting is poised to be the biggest makeup trend of the spring.
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Whether you’re looking to amplify your no-makeup makeup game, seamlessly carve your cheekbones and jawline, or cut back on the amount of product you use, underpainting can help. With this method, you’re guaranteed to have fresh glam all spring long. Keep scrolling to learn more.
What is underpainting?
@victorialyn The @maryphillips Routine‼️Underpainting seen on @Hailey Bieber @Kendall Jenner & more✨#makeup #beauty #haileybieber #maryphillips #underpainting
Underpainting refers to the method of painting on products (i.e, contour, concealer, highlighter, blush) underneath foundation. And though this technique is nothing new, many pro MUAs have put their own spin on it over the years. With the Mary Phillips method, you apply contour, concealer, and highlighter first, then follow up with a lightweight foundation on top. The end result: a seamless, sculpted look with an airbrush finish that no-makeup makeup and glam girlies alike can appreciate.
How to master the underpainting technique
1. Prep the skin
It’s no secret that beneath all flawless makeup lies good skin prep. With underpainting, hydrating the skin beforehand is key; this is especially important because you use less product with this technique and enhance and emphasize the skin. Plus, the better the prep, the better your products will lay. Phillips is a fan of using serums, moisturizers, and performing gua sha to get the skin ready.
Not only is this serum affordable AF, it’s also suitable for oily, combination, normal, and dry skin types, and can be used alone or in tandem with your favorite moisturizer.
If you’re in the market for a splurge purchase, this 2-in-1 moisturizer/primer is the way to go. Formulated to nourish, plump, hydrate, and prep the skin for makeup application, you definitely get your money's worth.
Calling all dry skin girlies. Mix a drop of this in with your favorite moisturizer to nourish and hydrate, hide dry patches, and create a primer your makeup will grip to all day and night.
Use this after applying your skincare products and before makeup application to sculpt and carve your cheekbones and jawline to the makeup gods.
2. Apply your contour
Once the skin’s been prepped, it’s time to lay down the contour. Although Phillips applies contour to the cheekbones, outer parts of the eyes and upwards towards the temples, along the hairline, jawline, and nose, keep in mind that everyone’s face is different; what works best will vary from person to person, so don’t be afraid to play around and experiment! Also, cream and liquid products typically work best for this process. If you’re not using a stick formula, make sure you have a dense brush for precise application. Likewise, you’ll also need a stippling brush for blending.
If you want your makeup application to be as simple as possible, a stick formula is the way to go. Available in 8 shades, Rare Beauty’s Effortless Bronzer Stick melts into skin and has a buildable formula that will make underpainting a breeze.
This affordable liquid formula comes with a built-in sponge for precise and seamless application. For just $11, you really can’t go wrong.
This all-in-one palette has three shades for contouring and three shades for concealing and brightening, so you can easily mix and match to create custom shades suited to your skin tone.
A brush kit that comes with 3 densely packed brushes of varying sizes that are perfect for applying, blending, and buffing contour? Yes, please.
3. Conceal and highlight
Next, apply concealer to any areas you’d like to brighten. This is typically underneath the eyes, the tops of the cheekbones, down the bridge of the nose, sides of the nose, in the middle of the forehead, chin, around the mouth, etc. Your concealer should be 1-2 shades lighter than your skin tone to really create a brightening effect. Likewise, cream or liquid formulas work best for this, and can be blended out using a damp sponge or concealer brush.
There’s a reason this concealer has a cult-following. The liquid formula glides on with a radiant, creamy finish that doesn’t settle into fine lines, provides medium coverage and all-day wear, and has a plethora of shades to choose from.
This cream-based concealer is perfect for the woman on-the-go, since it can be easily applied using your fingertips and blended out with a brush or sponge.
This softly angled brush works flawlessly for both applying and blending all concealer formulas, which is definitely nothing to sneeze at.
The OG of all makeup sponges, the Original Beautyblender is super soft and designed with a latex-free formula to help you seamlessly blend beauty products.
4. Add foundation
This step should be done using a large, fluffy brush and lightweight or medium-coverage foundation. Simply tap into foundation, and apply using an upwards, stippling motion to blend. This is especially important to do around your contour; you don’t want to mix the colors and accidentally create a darker complexion shade.
Allow us to introduce to you Phillips’ go-to foundation. The celebrity MUA swears by this thanks to its lightweight formula and radiant, dewy, skin-like finish. Available in 17 shades.
For a more full-glam moment, reach for L’Oréal’s True Match Super Blendable Foundation. With 47 colors to choose from, you’re bound to find your perfect match.
Have the ultimate supermodel sheer-glam moment with Glossier’s Perfecting Skin Tint. The lightweight dewy, liquid formula will help you seamlessly blend everything together, so you can step out in style.
Thanks to Sephora’s Makeup Match Foundation Brush, flawless foundation application is easier than ever. Tap or dab into the product, then apply using an upwards, stippling motion.
5. Finish with blush and powder
To tie the technique together, Phillips finishes with a cream blush and light veil of pressed bronzing powder to set makeup in place (though you can also use a loose setting powder instead of bronzer). This should be done with a large powder brush to really create a soft, airbrushed finish that looks good IRL and on camera.
Another product that has Phillips’ stamp of approval, Westman Atelier’s blush sticks add the perfect flush of color to any makeup look, and can be applied using your fingers or favorite blush brush.
This 3-in-1 powder works to seamlessly illuminate, blur, and set the skin with a radiant glow. Available in 5 colors.
e.l.f’s Precision Powder Brush is exactly what you need for applying loose powders and pressed formulas with light, even coverage. Designed with an ergonomic handle and loosely bound, large bristles, you can set your makeup with confidence for just $12.
Arguably the holy grail of all loose setting powders, Laura Mercier’s Translucent Loose Setting Powder goes on sheer and holds makeup in place for 24 hours. Available in 3 colors.