Beauty

Celebrities’ Secret to Clear Skin? Microdosing Accutane—Here’s What You Need to Know

written by LAUREN HARANO
Graphics by: Aryana Johnson
Graphics by: Aryana Johnson

It’s a fact: The rise of TikTok led to the subsequent rise of beauty trends in the past few years. From skin cycling and latte makeup to slugging and underpainting, the influx of trends is enough to make even the biggest beauty buff’s head spin. And while some of these trends (specifically makeup) are suitable for most skin types, a majority of the skincare trends are not one size fits all.

The latest and perhaps most debated beauty trend to hit #BeautyTok revolves around microdosing the controversial acne pill, Accutane. For background, “Accutane is an FDA-approved treatment for nodulocystic and severe acne,” explains Dr. Deeptej Singh, board-certified dermatologist and founder and owner of Sandia Dermatology in Albuquerque, New Mexico. “First approved for use in 1982, Accutane (generic name isotretinoin) is a derivative of vitamin A.” While this oral medication is known to effectively treat severe acne, it does not come without a handful of serious side effects, including headaches, nosebleeds, extremely dry skin, and even depression. 

However, that’s where microdosing the drug comes in. Microdosing Accutane has garnered attention for its potential to successfully manage acne while minimizing the side effects. Accutane is traditionally prescribed in higher doses, but microdosing involves a lower daily intake, which offers a promising alternative. This approach aims to strike a balance between efficacy and reducing the risk of adverse reactions commonly associated with standard Accutane dosages, making it a more inviting option for people who want clearer skin with potentially milder symptoms. 

So, does microdosing Accutane really work? Keep reading to learn more.

Dr. Deeptej Singh

Dr. Deeptej Singh is a dermatologist in Albuquerque, New Mexico and is affiliated with University of New Mexico Hospitals. He received his medical degree from Boston University School of Medicine and has been practicing dermatology for 20 years.

What does it mean to microdose Accutane?

As mentioned previously, microdosing Accutane is a method of taking the medication in significantly lower doses than the traditional standard dose. This approach aims to achieve the benefits of Accutane (i.e., managing acne) while potentially reducing the risk of severe side effects that are commonly associated with standard or higher doses. (Read: Fewer nosebleeds, stomach issues, and other unfavorable reactions.) 

So, what exactly does that look like? Well, as with most medications, it varies person by person. While the traditional dose of Accutane is around 40 and 80 milligrams a day, microdosing tremendously cuts that down. Since people who are looking to microdose Accutane do not have as severe acne as people who are looking to take a standard dosage, the amount they take is dependent on their skin as well as what their physician recommends. This could be anywhere from 10 milligrams a day to 20 milligrams a week. 

Is microdosing Accutane effective?

Since Accutane is a medication, it’s important to consult a dermatologist as well as your primary care doctor to see if it’s a fit for you. That being said, Dr. Singh supports taking low doses of the medication for those who are looking to clear their skin. “I am generally in favor of ‘microdosing’ Accutane when needed,” he explains. “Another way of describing this process is ‘low and slow.’ It is safe, and it is effective, depending upon the indication and the circumstances of the patient.” Taking low doses of the medication still works to combat acne while not producing as severe of side effects.

Who is a good candidate to microdose Accutane?

People who might be considered good candidates for microdosing Accutane typically include those with mild to moderate acne that they have not been able to get rid of with conventional treatments like topical medications or oral antibiotics. If they’ve tried spot treatments, retinol, and other over-the-counter treatments but have had no luck with their stubborn acne, they might consider taking things up a notch with Accutane. 

However, each case is unique, and dermatologists and/or healthcare professionals should determine if Accutane is the right solution after evaluating their patient’s acne severity, medical history, and the balance between potential benefits and risks associated with the treatment.

Source: Karolina Grabowska

Are there still side effects when taking low-dose Accutane?

According to Dr. Singh, “Yes, there can still be side effects on low-dose Accutane. Dose-dependent side effects tend to be milder, but they can still occur.” No matter how small of a dose of the medication someone is taking, they should still be very aware that there are serious side effects that can occur. Most people experience severe skin dryness and tightness, as well as headaches, nosebleeds, and dry eyes. In more serious cases, people can experience rashes, low sex drive, hair thinning, and joint and muscle aches and pains.

Are there still benefits when taking low-dose Accutane?

While there are side effects to taking Accutane, there are also benefits. One of the biggest advantages is its ability to significantly reduce sebum production, ultimately shrinking the oil glands in the skin. This helps to prevent pores from becoming clogged—a major factor in acne development. Another key benefit is its effectiveness in minimizing acne lesions and preventing new ones from forming, leading to clearer skin over time. Accutane also has anti-inflammatory properties, which reduce the redness and swelling associated with acne breakouts. For many people who have struggled with acne that hasn’t responded well to other treatments, taking low-dose Accutane can provide long-term relief and improvement to their skin and overall confidence.